TL;DR
Simon Kearns, a professional mountaineer, shattered the unsupported, on-foot record for Mount Rainier after his ski gear broke. He adjusted his plan from skiing to running and still achieved a record-breaking time.
Simon Kearns, 25, set a new unsupported, on-foot speed record on Mount Rainier on May 9, after a broken ski derailed his original plan to break a ski record on the mountain. Learn more about the importance of accurate mountain measurements. Kearns completed the 14.5-mile round-trip in 3 hours, 43 minutes, and 52 seconds, beating the previous record by over 30 minutes. This achievement highlights his adaptability and endurance, as he shifted from skiing to running due to equipment failure.
Kearns, a professional guide and mountaineer with a history of setting FKTs on major peaks, was originally aiming to break a ski record on Rainier. Discover the story of Mount Rainier’s changing landscape. However, a week before the attempt, he snapped his only pair of skis, which made skiing impossible under the dry winter conditions. Consequently, he decided to attempt the route on foot, carrying only lightweight gear, microspikes, and safety equipment for an unsupported attempt.
The route, starting at Paradise and ascending via the Muir Snowfield, Camp Muir, Cathedral Gap, and Ingraham Direct, is mostly snow-covered and requires glacier travel. Kearns’s effort was meticulously planned, with no outside assistance, resupply, or crew, adhering to FKTs rules. His time surpassed the previous unsupported record of 4 hours, 14 minutes, and 13 seconds, set by Alex King in 2021.
Why It Matters
This record is significant because it demonstrates the high level of skill and endurance among mountaineers, especially guides who are intimately familiar with the route. Kearns’s pivot from skiing to running exemplifies resilience and adaptability in pursuit of mountaineering achievements. His success also adds to the legacy of FKTs on Rainier, a mountain with a long history of speed record attempts by guides and climbers.
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Background
Mount Rainier has a storied history of speed records dating back to 1959, when guides Lou and Jim Whittacker and John Day set the first documented record at 7 hours, 20 minutes. Read about other notable mountaineering achievements. FKTs on the mountain are often set by guides and athletes familiar with the route and conditions. Kearns, who joined Rainier Mountaineering Inc. in 2025, had previously set FKTs on other prominent peaks, including Mount Hood and Mount Massive, and holds several records for unsupported ascents.
“Getting down and knowing that I was finally done, I was really happy, and realized I could finally rest. I was definitely crying—disbelief that it had gone so well. I didn’t think I would beat the record by so much.”
— Simon Kearns
“I put a lot into this record training for it, and failed a couple of times. But switching to running turned out to be the right call. I’m super tired, stoked, and ready for the next challenge.”
— Kearns
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What Remains Unclear
It remains unclear whether Kearns plans to attempt a ski record on Rainier in the future or if equipment issues will delay other mountaineering goals. The exact conditions during his attempt and how they compare to previous records are still being analyzed.
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What’s Next
Kearns intends to focus on guiding work with RMI but will pursue additional FKTs, including a possible attempt on Long’s Peak. Further details on upcoming speed records or mountaineering projects are expected in the coming months. Explore more about mountaineering innovations.
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Key Questions
What was Kearns’s original goal for the Mount Rainier attempt?
He initially aimed to set a ski record on Mount Rainier, but equipment failure forced him to switch to an unsupported on-foot attempt.
How did Kearns manage the unsupported aspect of his record?
He carried all necessary supplies, including safety gear and emergency items, and did not receive outside assistance or resupply during his ascent and descent.
What is the significance of this record in mountaineering history?
It continues the tradition of speed records on Rainier, mainly set by guides and experienced climbers, and showcases the versatility and endurance of modern mountaineers.
Will Kearns attempt a ski record on Rainier in the future?
It is not yet clear if he plans to pursue a ski record, especially given the equipment issues that prompted his pivot to running.
What are Kearns’s next mountaineering goals?
He plans to attempt FKTs on other peaks, such as Long’s Peak, and continues guiding for RMI.
Source: Outside
